From Keld, the Pennine Way crosses the River
Swale where it ascends the north side of Swaledale to
East Stonesdale Farm. On the opposite side of the short
valley of Stonesdale is the minor road, winding up
through the hairpin from Keld. At the end of Stonesdale
is Frith Lodge from where the terrain becomes bleak an
barren. Here the walker is entering the North Pennines, a
taste of what to come.
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After crossing Lad Gill, the Pennine
Way reaches Stonesdale Moor, a Lunar landscape
pockmarked with cairns and other waymarks. The
trail was used by miners from Roman times until
the early 20th century. Here there is evidence of
the coal mining that used to go on here and care
should be taken around the old workings.
Packhorse trails used to criss-cross the moors
here, converging on the remote Tan Hill Inn. Stonesdale
Moor
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Formally known as the King's Pit Inn,
this remote pub is the highest in Britain and
certainly a welcoming sight, halfway along the
Pennine Way. Here camping and meals are available
and the traveller may wish to stay awhile to
enjoy it's charms.
Leaving Tan Hill, perhaps reluctantly, the
Pennine Way strikes out north-east across
sleightholme moor where it follows Frumming Beck.
Past Sleightholme moor the path crosses
Sleighthome Beck at IntakeA welcome sight - Tan Hill Inn
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Bridge before following the
beck down to Trough Heads Farm. After some heathery
moorland the path crosses the River Greta at God's Bridge
where the river dives beneath slabs of limestone. Passing
a limekiln, another farm house and a disused railway, the
Pennine Way arrives at the A66 where it crosses Bowes
Moor between Penrith and Scotch Corner. Take care
crossing the busy road. From here the Pennine Way
continues northwards through Teesdale, over the
north-east Cumbria Fells and then into Northumberland
where it traverses the lonely Cheviot Hills before
crossing the Scottish border then finally descending into
Kirk Yetholm.
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